Essay on history of surfing

Submitted By ethanhaswell
Words: 1900
Pages: 8
Open Document
History of surfing
Ethan Haswell, year 9.

In this report I will talk about things like the history of surfing around the world, the history of surfing in Australia, the history of body boarding and how surfing has evolved over time and other things in the surf industry.

History of surfing in the world

The riding of waves has likely existed since humans began swimming in the ocean. In this sense, bodysurfing is the oldest type of wave-catching. Standing up on what is now called a surfboard is a relatively recent innovation developed by the Polynesians. The influences for modern surfing can be directly traced to the surfers of pre-contact Hawaii.

It is thought that Captain James Cook first observed this pastime in the early 1770s. It was around the same time that missionaries suppressed the sport, outlawing it as being an 'unchristian' activity. It is believed that it was gambling that actually caused its demise when they removed sport from the activities of the noblemen who used to bet on the size of waves and length of ride. Surfing is said to have disappeared to most of the world for a couple of hundred of years. Previous to that Polynesians used to stand proud on wooden surfboards crafted from the timber of sacred trees. Fifteenth century 'Meles' (Hawaiian chants sung by elders and passed down generation to generation) record the surfing activities of the great Royal families and other dignitaries of even earlier times.

Hawaii, specifically Waikiki, is known as the birthplace of modern surfing. It depends on who you talk to, but surfing in Hawaii dates back to between 500 and 1000 years. Some of the history is recorded from the Hawaiian tradition of using chants to share knowledge. Although it is undeniable that Hawaii is to thank for the development of surfing, Hawaiians weren’t the first to surf. Polynesians originally used surfing over 2,000 years ago as a means to get to shore. When Polynesians settled in Hawaii in the fourth century A.D. they began to use surfing as play, not work. The first recorded accounts of recreational surfing dates back to the late 1700’s. After a decline in surfing and an actual ban in Hawaii, surfing didn’t become popular worldwide until the early to mid 1900’s when Duke Kahanamoku, born August 24, 1890, elevated surfing to an international sport. As a three-time Olympic gold medal swimmer, a world-class surfer and a well travelled actor, Duke succeeded in spreading the sport to mainland U.S. and Australia. In the 50’s and 60’s, surfing took off in the U.S., Hawaii, and Australia. By the time the 70’s rolled around, surfing was an industry. Today the surfing industry is strong and surfers are continuously pushing the sport to new levels.

The first surfboards were shaped from the trees of Koa, Wili Wili, and the Ula. The gods blessed the people of Hawaii with fine woods for making high quality surfboards. A sacrificial Redfish (Kumu) was buried at the foot of the tree that was chosen as pa-ha. The boards were sanded with coral (pokaku puna) and rough stones (oahi). Kulkui bark juice, Ti plant root, banana bud juice, burnt Pandanus and Kukui nut oil were used to treat, colour and preserved the board. Some of the first surfboards were up to 15’ -18’ long and weighed over 100 lbs. Surfboards originally did not have fins (or skegs) in them, therefore manoeuvrability was limited. The skeg was not introduced until the 1930’s and gained popularity in the 50’s and 60’s with the rapid advancement of surfboard technology. Surfboards are as unique as surfers themselves. Today, there are many varieties of shapes, styles, materials and designs. Each board is made for a particular purpose such as big waves, speed, advanced moves and tricks on the waves and many more. Many times a surfboard is even designed for a specific surf break and/or surfer. Although every board has its own story, several types of boards have been invented and reinvented throughout the surfing history that
Show More

Related Documents: Essay on history of surfing

Laird 3 Essay

Poster Child of Big Wave Surfing Hawaiians invented the art of riding waves during the 1700’s because they found pleasure in sharing waves with one another and thus adapted it into their culture. The sport of surfing has since evolved immensely. Surfboards have developed from the 16 foot wooden planks named olos. Today typical surfboards are made from polyurethane foam and fiberglass. The evolution in surfboard design allows for surfers to push the limits in wave riding. Surfing can be found by coastlines…

Words 1088 - Pages 5

Ancient Hawaiian Culture

way of life. Most of the activities were culturally important, two ancient past times have now been diagnosed on a worldwide stage: surfing and hula. The uniqueness of these activities has made them iconic of Hawaiian subculture and has created a strong sense of pride and culture. The purpose of my research is to present history on the Hawaiian activities of surfing and hula and their importance to Hawaiian lifestyle. The significance of such activities in relation to Hawaiian lifestyle is a crucial…

Words 1730 - Pages 7

Surfing Culture Turning Into a Business Essay

Surf culture turning into a business By Sarah Yeap While surfing is seen as a part of Australia's identity, many have used this as a lucrative business opportunity. This being the case, some surfers feel that surfing is no longer considered spiritual and as a surfers entity, but that it is being transformed into a money making process. This essay will be talking about how tourists and foreigners have affected the surfing lifestyle as the industry has attracted a large population to the beach…

Words 1026 - Pages 5

Negative Representation Of Female Surfing Culture

The negative representation of female surfers to the surfing culture, and the public, is often caused inadvertently by the surfing industry itself. There is a large flow on effect which encourages sexualisation and the controversial portrayal of female surfers to the media and general public. This problem originated decades ago, and hasn't improved. There are three major problems nowadays for these surfers; they fight against small pay checks, prescribed expectations of endorsing products, and suffer…

Words 1271 - Pages 6

The Pacific Rim S Hidden Gem S Essay

• United States History & Geography of the Region • The Pacific Rim encompasses many different geographic regions • Containing both tropical, and polar climates • Contains numerous developing nations, as well as many third-world countries and but also world super powers • It also contains some of the wealthiest and poorest nations in the world Pacific Rim and Surfing • A major part of the Pacific Rim’s culture is surfing • Home to some of the best waves in the world, surfing is a major part of…

Words 1107 - Pages 5

Essay on Ceramics: Scientific Method and Vintage Hawaiian Pottery

that met my greatest qualities. Due to my fascination with surfing, the art of it, the balance of determination and thrill, it was easy to find the perfect focus along with the precise region. Hawaii is one of the world’s most well known hotspots for surfing. From here, I researched deeper until I discovered Vintage Hawaiian Pottery. Before I could begin my projects, I had to further educate myself on this topic. Let’s take a look at the history of it all. Let’s begin with my historical research.…

Words 499 - Pages 2

Bra Boys Film Analysis

social evolution of a notorious surfing tribe from the Maroubra Beach community based in Sydney. The film offers an insider perspective of the social, cultural and historical events that have shaped the reputation of the tribe as it centralizes on the story of the Abberton brothers. The Bra Boy’s themselves are a group or ‘tribe’ of multi-ethnic surfers who all reside around the South-Eastern Sydney suburbs, centralized on Maroubra Beach. There is a rich history of tradition and culture that is…

Words 1337 - Pages 6

X Games Research Paper

the history of the X Games? How was it Introduced?, what were the first events?, and how did it progress over the years? The X Games are a series of action sport events that have progressed over the years and introduced a new intensity for action sports. Many moments of action sport history has been made in the X Games, including first ever high number spins, double flips, and even triple flips. The point being, the X Games is a truly amazing event and is a major part of action sport history. How…

Words 637 - Pages 3

heros essay

Heroes are all over the world whether they are in marvel comic books, in history or in your personal life. You can be hero without knowing it. Just making someone smile can brighten up their day. Heroes are there to make a stand and spread word to make people understand the thing they are striving for. They’re there to save lives and support others but most of all to make people smile. Heroes are a big part of everyone’s childhood whether you had action figures or you read them in comics. A lot…

Words 671 - Pages 3

Biology question Essay

is only a plane ride away to the luxurious and relaxing islands of the Maldives. Today I will be touching on brief history of the Maldive islands, the endless adventures and activities to do, and the 5 star resorts located on this island. In listening to these three 3 main points I will not only give you reason but excitement to book your next vacation spot to the Maldives. History The Republic of Maldives otherwise known as “ Mandu Pa-tee” by locals which translates into “utopia world” seamlessly…

Words 880 - Pages 4