Each and every region of India contributes in creating a myriad of textile tradition.
The hilly region of the country produces a rich variety of woollen textiles. The pashmina and shahtoosh shawls of Kashmir, shawls and woollen garments of Himachal Pradesh and other north eastern states provides excellent examples of world famous woollen Indian textiles. The barren and semi barren regions like Rajasthan and Gujarat usually prefers embroidered bright coloured textiles. The coastal areas of the south eastern regions prefer light coloured fabrics and particularly cotton and silk textiles are very popular over here. The home furnishing utilitarian textile products like bed spreads and sheets, pillows and cushions, linens and mats, curtains and napkins, carpets and rugs and many such other items are produced by all parts of the country
It is a decorative work in which a piece of cloth is decorated with glass pieces, metals, wood or metal wires. The craft is practiced in the region of Orissa and Rajasthan.
Pipli, a place in Orissa is a main centre of Appliqué work.
The red, purple, black, yellow, green and white fabrics are mostly used in this craft. First, a base material in the shape of square, rectangle, circle or oval is prepared and then it is stitched onto the base cloth in aesthetic arrangements. After attaching the appliqué patches to the base cloth it is stitched.
Punjab also has traditional appliqué work called 'Phulkari'. This craft is usually executed on shawls, and chunnis (scarfs).
While in Andhara Pradesh Banjara women wear blouses and headscarves decorated with appliqué and mirror work.
Rajasthan has an appliqué or gota work. Shekhawati is an important centre for this technique.
Utility items like bags, lampshades, and tablemats are also decorated with this technique.
EXAMPLES OF PHULKARI
AN DECORATIVE REPEAT PATTERN (GOTA WORK) MADE IN RAJASTHAN
Tie and dye, hand printing and block printing are common across the country and come in numerous styles, influenced by local factors. The Tie and dye technique of printing in particular is popular in the arid and semi arid regions of the country where people prefer brightly coloured clothes. The states of Rajasthan, Madhya Pradesh and Andhra Pradesh are main centres for block printing.
TIE AND DIE:
The process of tie and dye weaving starts with preparing the warp and weft from the bleached silk yarn by spinning it. Squatted on the floor, women reel threads from primitive spinning wheels to load bobbins. Giant spinning wheels are employed to prepare the warp, which forms the length of the fabric. The warp is fastened between two poles set apart and marked according to the design. For preparing the weft (which forms the width), a fan-shaped, spiked wooden frame is used. Strand upon strand of yarn is deftly wound between the spikes and the converging rod at the other end of the frame. The yarn is tied with threads and strips of rubber, in line with the predetermined pattern marked on it. The warp and weft yarns are individually knotted and wrapped tight enough to prevent the dye from penetrating into it when dipped in different colors. This is called double-tie-dye method. The process of tying and dyeing is repeated several times depending on the number of colors required by the design. When the yarn has dried, the wrappings are carefully removed. The yarn, which is to become the length of the fabric to be woven, is stretched on the loom while the weft yarn is once again transferred to the fan-shaped wooden frame. At this stage one can see the patterns emerging, ready to be woven together. The craft of tie-dyed weaving is known as Chitki in Telugu. But its popular name, however, is Ikat. The technique involves great skill and precise…