Step by step onto the warm aureate sand made my feet sink in a millimetre deeper, and nothing but quiet at the beach in the almost dimness of early evening is ever astonishing. Stretches further than the eye can see the ocean is entirely free. It looked like a big blue blanket covering the earth with nothing but comfort. As stranger and I waxed our board on the edge of the shore, waves ran across bearing sea shells along as it surrounds where I kneel. I held a shell to my ear, and listened to its tale. Whispers entered my ear, but nothing else than a morbid calm voice here, calling me into the big blue bubbly bath tub of water.
Other surfers continue to wax their board, from the cogitation I courageously dived under the surface of the ocean with my surfboard, although the water was as cold as ice as it pelts my skin. Paddling further until I was isolated with nothing but low-tide waves. Often I sit on my board awaiting for a wave sensation, looking back to a childhood, mist with the sight and the sounds of the wildwood.
Day ends to rest, and the sunset does its best. The outstanding ocean will receive, yet still to arrive, the burning sun that’s going to leave. The mists of evening rise, and stretch away between the horizon and the distant to sail, and the earth and the sea are clothed in sombre grey. Higher the moon ascends, and star upon star arises by low-lying isle.
I hear the soft lashing, and splashing and crashing of the black waves for long and in loneliness. Spatter of surfers paddling, while the thrilling screams of the first time surfers.
Seconds later, I was devoured by a blur creature that entered my sight, a Dolphin at my side swimming swiftly with her grey excellence sin to the evening breeze. She is an object of beauty and strength, so I sat and watch her until length.
Seaweed dangles beneath the broad sea, seagulls swat softly above flying in a spree along singing the song it has for ages sung, and the crisps sea air blows against my mahogany dark curls.
I paddle swift, steady strokes as I hit the wave with adrenaline rushing, so I turn around as I hear wave crashing. Gave it my all and let the wave do it all. Sudden swing, a twist and a fling! My board point for the shore and I fix my eye where the surf flings high to fall on the reef a roar.
I schlunch into the ocean off my board, but the…